Perfect Peru

Most travellers go to Peru for Machu Picchu – a once-in-a-lifetime chance to step back into the ancient citadel of the Inca Empire while taking in the spectacular setting of the Peruvian Andes. But it’s far from the only reason to visit.

Having worked and travelled in South America, Peru holds special memories for me: dramatic landscapes with colourful mountains, lush forests and epic canyons; rich wildlife, from spectacled bears (the species Paddington is based on) to enormous condors; and diverse cultures and traditions. You never quite know what you’ll see. A local celebration might suddenly fill a town plaza, or llamas dressed in colourful costumes might parade along the road.

Here’s what you shouldn’t miss out on:

Lima

There’s a real buzz about Lima, Peru’s capital. Founded in 1535 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro and known as the ‘City of Kings’, it was once Spain’s most powerful base in South America. Even older history lies nearby at Huaca Pucllana, an adobe pyramid dating back to around AD 500. For a deeper look into Peru’s past, the Larco Museum holds an extraordinary collection of pre-Columbian artefacts, including ceramics, textiles and intricate gold and silver work.

Peru is also one of the world’s most respected food destinations and Lima is home to world-class restaurants and cafés. One dish I always recommend is Peru’s national dish, ceviche – raw fish cured in lime juice with chilli and red onion. The Pisco Sour – cocktail of pisco, lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white – is widely believed to have been invented in Lima. Though Ecuador also lays claim to it, it is Peru’s national drink, and if you’re going to try one (or two), this is the place.

Many travellers skip Arequipa, Peru’s second-largest city, rushing instead between Cusco and Machu Picchu, but that’s a mistake. The historic centre is, like Lima, a UNESCO World Heritage site, filled with elegant buildings constructed from pale volcanic sillar stone, earning it the nickname the White City. At the Monastery of Santa Catalina, a vast 16th-century convent with courtyards, cloisters, streets and colourful plazas, you’ll find the showstopping Chapel of Santa Catalina, richly decorated with gilded altars and religious paintings.

Food here tends to be heartier than in Lima, with stews and spicy sauces. Local specialities include rocoto relleno – red rocoto peppers stuffed with meat, vegetables and cheese – alongside many dishes featuring potatoes. That’s hardly surprising, given Peru grows more than 3,000 varieties.

Colca Canyon

In Aguada Blanca National Reserve, a stark high-altitude desert, you might spot vicuñas grazing alongside flamingos. La Calera Hot Springs offer mineral-rich pools heated by volcanic activity – the perfect place to soak after a day of exploring. But the real reason to come here is the chance to see the Andean condor (Vultur gryphus) over the Colca Canyon. One of the largest flying birds on Earth, it can weigh more than 15kg and has a wingspan exceeding three metres. It can be spotted from the Cruz del Condor viewpoint, rising the rising thermals.

Lake Titicaca

Sitting at 3,810 metres above sea level on the Peru-Bolivia border, Lake Titicaca the largest lake in South America by volume and surface area, and the highest navigable lake in the world. Lake and sky blend into deep shades of blue. Sacred in Inca mythology, it’s believed to be the birthplace of their civilisation.

The floating Uros Islands – constructed from totora reeds by the indigenous Uros people – are a fascinating, if touristy, stop, offering a glimpse into how the islands are built and maintained. I found Taquile Island, where Inca-style agricultural terraces are still used for farming and local artisans demonstrate their traditional handwoven textiles, particularly fascinating.

The historic centre of Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire and now the gateway to Machu Picchu, is lively and welcoming. You’ll see local people parade across the Plaza de Armas playing trumpets, shells and drums, before you repair to cosy restaurants serving trout, potatoes and other Andean specialities beside crackling fires. Menus across the region often feature corn, quinoa and meats, such as alpaca and guinea pig (cuy).

Cusco itself is rich in history. Cusco Cathedral is home to paintings including Marcos Zapata’s The Last Supper. And above the city rises the vast stone complex of Sacsayhuamán, a 15th-century Inca ceremonial site built from enormous limestone blocks. Driving through the Sacred Valley reveals even more remarkable sites, including Ollantaytambo, an impressive Inca fortress and temple complex built into a steep mountainside overlooking the Urubamba River. The valley is also home to the charming town of Pisac (add accent on i in glyphs), whose market stalls sell agricultural produce, textiles, ceramics and jewellery – a great place to pick up alpaca wool hats, scarves and gloves.

The final approach to Machu Picchu is by train – one of my favourite journeys in Peru, winding slowly through the snow-capped peaks, misty valleys, cloud forests and rushing rivers of the Andes. And then, at last, you reach Machu Picchu.

Built in the 15th century during the reign of Emperor Pachacuti, the city is often called the ‘Lost City of the Incas’. American explorer Hiram Bingham famously ‘rediscovered’ it in 1911, although local people had always known about the site and some even farmed its terraces. Archaeologists believe Machu Picchu served as a royal retreat and religious centre, with temples, plazas and sacred sites aligned to astronomical events and dedicated to sun worship. You will see cultural history from agricultural experimentation on terraces to sophisticated urban planning and stonework. Temples, such as the Temple of the Sun, were built from precisely cut stones fitted together without mortar, a technique that has endured for centuries.

Yet more than anything, from my own visit I remember simply wandering the site at my own pace, absorbing the atmosphere of an extraordinary civilisation in one of the most spectacular mountain settings on Earth.

A perfect end to a tour of perfect Peru.

Discover our escorted tours of Peru, includingnew tour Peru: Land of the Incas