Almond and olive groves stretch as far as the eye can see, with the heel of Italy’s boot bordered by two seas – and 800-odd kilometres of coastline and beach, lapped by turquoise waves. Tucked away in the countryside, you’ll find whitewashed villages and historic towns, including the fairytale trulli of Alberobello and baroque Lecce, known as the ‘Florence of the South’.
Made for long lazy days strolling through shady streets and people-watching over a glass of local wine, boat trips and snorkelling in the fabulously clear waters, exploring national parks and Roman ruins, the question isn’t what to do in Puglia, it’s what to do first.
Lecce
Lecce’s ornate baroque architecture is so memorable, its style has earned its own name – barocco leccese. A walk through the piazzas and ancient gates, past the honey-stone palazzi and cathedral would be unforgettable enough, but don’t miss the astonishing Basilica di Santa Croce, where the 17th century façade is a riot of carvings and decoration. Look out for the Telamons, the huge figures in Turkish dress used in place of columns, holding up the balcony, as well as griffins and dodos among the wolves and lions.
At the fascinating Museo Faggiano, this archaeological excavations at this townhouse show the many different stages of Lecce’s history, right back to Roman times. The city is also home to a Roman theatre and an amphitheatre built during the reign of emperor Hadrian, which could once seat around 15,000 spectators. Created during the 2nd century, it was lost and buried for centuries, until being rediscovered in the early 20th century.
Then finish with one more of the unmissable things to do in Puglia - indulge with Lecce’s traditional pastry, the pasticciotto. Filled with custard, the debate still rages about whether there should be a touch of lemon or not – try a few to make up your own mind.
Alberobello
Perhaps the first thing that comes to mind when people think of what to do in Puglia, Alberobello and its traditional trulli are among the region’s best-known sites. And for good reason; this UNESCO World Heritage Site is unique, the streets lined with the quirky circular houses with their famous conical roofs.
Designed to be easy to dismantle, in order for the town’s rulers to avoid paying tax, many date from the 14th century and more than 1,500 survive in Alberobello alone. As you explore, look out for the Trullo Sovrano, the only two-level trulli, now a museum on the town
Try to arrive early or late to avoid the worst of the crowds, and save time for a wine tasting of one of the many vintages from the surrounding area.
Ostuni
One of Puglia’s most eye-catching spots, Ostuni is known as ‘the white city’ thanks to the tufa stone used for its buildings. Occupied since the Stone Age, the gleaming architecture in the hilltop city is still encased in white walls, although there’s a splash of colour courtesy of the 15th century Gothic cathedral, with its decorative green, yellow and white slate tiles inside.
Soak up the views from the walls themselves or see the panorama from the viewpoint at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
Surrounded by vineyards, almond and olive trees in the lush Valle d’Itria, Ostuni is also known for its olive oil, sold in different strengths – delicate, medium and strong – and you can taste the varieties before picking up a bottle of your favourite.
Bari
Puglia’s capital city Bari can sometimes be overlooked when you’re considering what to do in Puglia, but bypassing the old port city would be a mistake, with some splendid architecture and unusual sites to discover.
The Romanesque Basilica di San Nicola is dedicated to St Nicholas, or Santa Claus, and was built to house his remains, which lie in the crypt to this day. In the weeks leading up to Christmas, local children place their letters to St Nicholas here and join in a special church service.
The old town is filled with medieval buildings and churches, as well as the Norman castle, but one of the most fascinating sights is along the Strada delle Orecchiette (officially Strada Arco Basso), where deft fingers create the city’s orecchiette pasta in full view.
There’s more history to discover at the Museo Archeologico di Santa Scolastica, which has exhibits dating back to Bronze Age and Roman times. And in the newer part of Bari, the Lungomare promenade is one of the longest in Europe, a perfect place for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an early evening stroll.
The Castellana Caves
The limestone that Puglia sits upon is one of the reasons the area is known for its wine, but it also results in some impressive caverns to explore. And around 40 minutes from Bari, the Grotte di Castellana, or Castellana Caves, is the largest cave system in Italy.
Discovered by accident in 1938, a visit is one of the more unusual things to do in Puglia, a destination more famous for what’s above the ground, but the fantastical and fairytale shapes created by stalactites, stalagmites, fossils and deep, shadowy holes is unforgettable.
A guide takes you on the 3km tour, venturing down as far as 122m below street level, or you can also join special tours which take place partly in the dark for an even more atmospheric experience.
Martina Franca
There’s a feeling of having stepped back in time as you walk through the pretty hilltop town of Martina Franca, with cobbled lanes and whitewashed alleys guiding you to some of its wonderful baroque buildings or out into shady piazzas lined with cafes and restaurants, enticing you to stop and watch the world go by.
Dating from the 14th century, Martina Franca is still partly surrounded by its 24 watchtowers and walls, with views out over the hills, valleys and limestone outcrops of Murgia.
As you stroll, don’t miss the 17th century Palazzo Ducale, once the home of the Caracciolo family who ruled the area, now the town hall, as well as the ornate 18th century Basilica di San Martino, although one of the highlights is exploring the area known as La Lama, where families still live and you might stumble across washing drying in a courtyard or the scent of dinner being prepared.
Castel del Monte
This unusual castle stands on a hilltop not far from Andria, built by Frederick II in the mid-13th century, a building where mystery is woven into the stones.
Unlike most fortresses, there are no defensive features such as a moat, drawbridge or arrow slits, and there are no important towns or locations to defend nearby. Instead, it’s thought that the octagonal structure was built as a hunting lodge or folly, although some believe that the shape is a symbol of religious devotion.
Either way, it’s a fascinating place to wander around, with marble columns and fireplaces, and corallite stone decorations, as well as what are thought to be the first flushing toilets in Europe, inspired by Frederick II’s admiration for the Arab world.
Otranto
As you explore pretty Otranto today, you wouldn’t guess at the darker chapters in this lovely town’s history, with a chance to learn more about its past as you explore. The medieval cathedral is best known for its astonishing 12th century mosaic, featuring mythical beasts, visions of heaven and hell, figures from the Bible and legend, and even a cat in boots.
Inside the cathedral, you’ll also find a memorial to 800 men beheaded after the fierce battle of Otranto in the late 15th century, as the Ottoman forces fought to expand their territory. After Christian forces later retook the town, they rebuilt the Aragones Castle to withstand any future attacks – today it’s a venue for arts and culture exhibitions, including a display on the first Gothic novel, The Castle of Otranto.
Back out in the sunshine, save time to amble along the lovely path around the Bay of Otranto, or swim from one of the little Lidos.
Lucera
There has been a settlement at Lucera since at least Bronze Age times, with the Romans later building their own city in the hills here – including the largest Roman amphitheatre in southern Italy, with space for up to 18,000 spectators to watch gladiators, mock battles and other spectacles here from the time of Emperor Augustus.
The town’s other main sight, along with the Renaissance churches and elegant palazzos of its attractive old town, is the huge Swabian fortress, built by Frederick II. Another of the emperor’s mysterious creations, the palace inside had no doors and could only be accessed using underground tunnels. Used as the location of one of the imperial mints, it is also said to have secretly houses Frederick II’s harem.
Gargano
In Puglia’s less visited northeast, there’s a chance to discover both history and some of the region’s loveliest scenery in Gargano. Its highest inhabited town, Monte Sant’Angelo is said to be where the Archangel Michael appeared in a cave, with a basilica built on the spot. Today it’s the final destination on a pilgrimage trail starting in Mont St-Michel in France, with historic graffiti left by many who visited over the centuries.
But the area is also home to the Parco Nazionale del Gargano, a beautiful national park on the spur of the Italian boot with hiking trails for all levels. Don’t miss the chance to marvel at the Foresta Umbra, or Forest of Shadows, ancient woodland which has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site, and which is home to wild cats, wild boar, roe deer and an astonishing 65 varieties of orchid.
The beaches of Puglia
With coast on both sides of the region, you aren’t short of beaches to add to your list of things to do in Puglia. You’re more likely to find picturesque rocky coves with shimmering turquoise sea than long stretches of golden sand, but you’ll be spoiled for choice whether you’re hoping for scenery, sunbathing or swimming.
At picturesque Polignano a Mare, Capa Porto beach is one of the most famous, while Baia della Zagare in Mattinata is equally eye-catching with pale cliffs behind the white sand, and sparkling turquoise water. Or as you relax on the beach at Torre dell’Orso, separated from the town by forest and dunes, look out for the pair of rock formations which are known as the two sisters,
If you’re determined to find a classic sandy beach, part of the 8km of Pescoluse has been nicknamed the ‘Maldives of Salento’ for its pale sale and clear blue waters, or head to the gentle sweep of the beach at Baia Verde (or Green Bay) near Gallipoli. The improbably named Punta Prosciutto (which translates as ham point) is far more scenic than its name suggests, with its own white sands tucked behind the dunes. If you’re exploring unspoiled Gargano, there are spectacular beaches here too, including Vignanotica with its white limestone cliffs as a backdrop, and sea caves to explore.
The Isole Tremiti
A short ferry ride from Puglia’s northern coastline, the Tremiti Islands are part of the Gargano National Park, and a tempting place to escape the crowds – although they’re unsurprisingly popular with locals during the summer.
Boats dock at San Domino, the largest island, with the sandy beach of Cala delle Arene, as well as the much-photographed Cala dei Pagliai, a cove accessible only by boat and with its beach protected by rocks jutting out of the waves.
You can also walk through the pine woods, hire bikes to cycle around the small island, or take boat trips around the coast and to some of the smaller islands – San Nicola is home to an 11th century abbey, while the more remote Capraia is home only to seabirds.
We offer escorted tours to Puglia, so it’s never been easier to discover the area’s highlights for yourself. Grab your sunhat and book Saga Italy holidays here.
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