Where to go in Cambodia

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Angkor Wat alone is unforgettable, with its centuries-old towers and intricate carvings, but that’s only the beginning of the history and heritage you can discover around Siem Reap, capital Phnom Penh and third city Battambang. Add in golden beaches and thick rainforest, stilted villages and elephant sanctuaries, all interwoven with a unique culture, and this magical country will capture your heart from day one. With so much to tempt, here are our top picks of where to go in Cambodia to add to your wish list.

If you visit nowhere else in Cambodia, you can’t miss Angkor Wat. The world’s largest religious structure, this former Hindu site was built in the 12th century, and later transformed into a Buddhist temple. The highlight of a visit to the ancient Khmer capital of Angkor, it was designed as an earthly representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods in Hindu mythology, with symbolic architecture right from the site’s moats to its ornate towers. As you explore, you’ll see intricate carvings throughout the buildings which tell stories of the gods and battle scenes, as well as showing scenes of everyday life.

While Angkor Wat is the most famous building from the historic Khmer capital of Angkor, it’s far from the only one to visit. The city itself is known as Angkor Thom, or the Great City, covering 3.5 square miles, and at its hear sits the 12th century Bayon Temple, known as the face temple for the 216 enigmatic smiling faces carved into its façade. Elsewhere you’ll find statues lining the approach to the South Gate, and the carvings of the Terrace of the Elephants.

Located slightly outside the walls of Angkor Thom, the temple of Ta Prohm is another of the best-known temples of Angkor – partly for its appearance in the Tomb Raider video games, but also for the way the jungle is reclaiming the buildings. The ruins here are enveloped in the snake-like roots of strangler figs and silk cotton trees, some of which are now an integral part of the stone edifice. While this popular site is less overgrown than other quieter temples such as Beng Mealea, it’s still an atmospheric testament to the power of nature and a reminder of the centuries which have passed since the temple’s heyday long ago.

A visit to Phare is far more than your average night at the circus, Instead, this company mixes astonishing acrobatics with stories from Cambodian history, folklore and the present day. With drama, dance, live music and visual arts used alongside circus skills during their performances, the ticket price also helps to support Cambodian arts education, including training the next generation of performers.

Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, Tonle Sap has been named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its rich biodiversity. It’s at this point that the Mekong River’s flow reverses, helping to create the vast lake, which supports millions whose livelihood relies on fishing and rice cultivation. As water levels rise during the wet season and drop during drier months, the area is famous for its stilt homes and floating farms, with boats used to get around. Home to a wide variety of birds and fish, you can also sail through mangrove forests which line the banks.

Royal Palace, Phnom Penh

The ornate Royal Palace still dominates the riverfront in capital Phnom Penh, even if it’s no longer the tallest building in this modern capital. Still the official residence of the monarch, parts of the palace compound are closed to the public but you can marvel at the exteriors, with their Khmer roofs, curlicue spires and ornate gilding. The Throne Room is open to the public, with its 59m-high tower inspired by the Bayon Temple in Angkor, and is still used for diplomatic ceremonies. The other key highlight is the Silver Pagoda, its floor covered with five tonnes of silver, and which houses a string of Buddha statues made from various precious metals.

Documenting the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge against the Cambodian people, a visit to Tuol Sleng Prison is an intensely moving and distressing reminder of one of the darkest chapters in Cambodian history. The former high school building was transformed into Security Prison (S-21) by Pol Pot’s security forces in 1975, becoming the largest centre of detention and torture in Cambodia. Today the museum bears witness to the horrifying crimes committed by the Khmer Rouge over the years until the prison was liberated by the Vietnamese army in 1979. It’s also possible to combine a visit with Choeung Ek Genocidal Center around 20 minutes away, better known as the Killing Fields.

The Mekong River flows through Phnom Penh on its long 3,050-mile journey from the Tibetan Plateau through Southeast Asia to the Mekong Delta and the sea. And even if you’re not cruising any further down the mighty waterway, you shouldn’t miss the chance to head out onto the river to watch the sun set over the spires and skyscrapers of the city’s skyline, and enjoy a chance to relax away from the bustle of the capital’s busy streets.

The beautiful 11th century temple of Ek Phnom is found just outside central Battambang, the third largest city in Cambodia. Now partially collapsed, it gives a glimpse of the country’s rich cultural heritage, with one notable carving at the eastern entrance showing the Hindu story of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, a quest for immortality. There’s also an ancient reservoir tucked away behind some more modern additions, including a pagoda and huge Buddha statue.

A ride on the Battambang Bamboo Train is far removed from any railway journey you might have taken before. With the country’s rail network abandoned under the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s, ongoing fighting in the 1980s left much of Cambodia’s infrastructure in ruins. Instead, local communities created their own solution in the shape of ‘norries’, wooden platforms made using spare materials and propelled down the surviving tracks using poles, before adding engines in the 1990s. Today, only a small section remains outside Battambang where you can ride on the rickety bamboo flatbeds as one of the most unusual experiences in Cambodia – so popular that a modern purpose-built version has also been unveiled in Battambang itself.

One of the last great wilderness regions of Southeast Asia, the vast Cardamom Rainforest Landscape covers around 8,000 square miles including the Cardamom Mountains and one of Cambodia’s most biodiverse regions. Home to several protected national parks and reserves, it’s a very different side to the country than the historic temples and busy cities. With eco-lodges and floating camps along the Tatai River, you can kayak through mangrove forests, spot wildlife and explore little-visited villages tucked away in the rainforest.

This sleepy seaside retreat was a favourite of the French in the early 20th century, during their colonial rule of the country, and of Cambodia’s elite after independence, Kep’s palm-lined streets are home to a string of modernist villas, now fallen into disrepair but a reminder of the town’s architectural glory days. Elsewhere, the butterfly-filled Kep National Park is another highlight, along with the relaxed beach and the crabs fished here and served up with black pepper at the crab markets.

Further north along Cambodia’s coast from Kep lie the country’s main beach resorts, with miles of golden sand beaches and exclusive resorts on some of the islands off the coast. While Sihanoukville has a less tempting reputation for partying backpackers and petty crime, quieter stretches such as Otres Beach and white sand Sokha Beach, plus the luxurious accommodation on Koh Rong Samloen are perfect to relax after sightseeing.

Cambodia’s shrinking population of elephants is to be found in Mondulkiri Province, in the country’s unspoiled east, with around 400 living wild and around another 50 domestic working elephants. One of the best ways to encounter these gentle giants is at the Elephant Valley Project, the country’s original elephant sanctuary, which has been named as one of the most ethical in Southeast Asia. Working closely with local mahouts to rehome overworked and injured elephants, the sanctuary acts like a retirement home; riding the animals is forbidden, but you can walk through the forest with them to learn more about their life and behaviour, as well as local culture and forest conservation.

Many of Cambodia’s traditional crafts date back to the days of the Khmer empire, including silk weaving, silversmithing, lacquerware, wood and stone carving and pottery. Various craft centres around the country work to ensure these skills don’t die out, selling pieces by local artisans, as well as providing workshops and training, with most found around Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. SATCHA Cambodian handicraft centre in Siem Reap is a great option to visit, with more than 50 artisans on site, plus bamboo workshops, and both modern designs and traditional crafts on sale showing the diversity of the country’s craftsmanship.

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