Glacier Express travel guide

Journeying through the High Alps, you can see the dramatic depths of the Rhine Gorge up to the 2,033m-high Oberalp Pass, discovering some of Switzerland’s most impressive feats of mountain railway engineering.

The complete route links Zermatt and St Moritz, passing through three different cantons - Valais, Uri and Graubünden – as well as negotiating 19 tunnels and 291 bridges and travelling through part of the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway. So if you’re planning a journey on the Glacier Express, here’s everything you need to know before you board in our Glacier Express travel guide.

The Glacier Express route stretches for around 181 miles between Zermatt and St Moritz, stopping at locations including Brig, Andermatt, Chur, Filisur and Samedan along the way. Created almost a century ago to help high society reach the newly fashionable resorts in the Swiss Alps, the first train ran in 1930, helping to make the mountain villages more accessible.

Glacier Express route map

Since 1982, the creation of the Furka Base tunnel means the trains have also been able to travel during the winter months (although there’s still an annual break from mid-October until early December) with the striking red train, emblazoned with Swiss crosses, transporting passengers through icy wintry landscapes, as well as through Alpine meadows during spring and summer. Travelling at an average speed of just 42km per hour, the entire route takes around eight hours to complete, although you can also travel along shorter sections for a taste of the highlights.

The bright red Glacier Express trains travel year-round apart from a short break from around mid-October to early December, so there’s no single best time to go on the Glacier Express. Instead, you can choose to enjoy the Alpine scenery covered with a blanket of sparkling snow during winter, or watch the colours emerging as temperatures rise, with wildflowers blooming in late spring, lush green mountain meadows or blazing autumnal golds and oranges. But whenever you decide to travel, here are some of the key sights along the Glacier Express route and highlights to look out for.

The starting point (or end point) of the Glacier Express route, Zermatt sits at the foot of the Matterhorn mountain, its peak rising to 4,478 metres above sea level. And while Zermatt has grown significantly since the first Glacier Express trains departed the station, it has still kept some of its original village charm. Car-free and with wooden houses which date back around 500 years, the highest ski resort in Europe has some wonderful walking and mountain scenery during summer.

Zermatt with Matterhorn

One of the first highlights of the Glacier Express route, you’ll spot the Bis glacier around 10 minutes after departing from Zermatt – the best views are on the left-hand side of the train (or the right hand side if you’re travelling from St Moritz). Stretching for around 3.5km, you’ll see this icy expanse year-round.

Signalling one of the most scenic sections of the Glacier Express route, as you reach Kalpetran and its waterfalls, the train runs next to the River Vispa while travelling through the Kipfen Gorge, with the water to one side and the dramatic rock face rising up on the other.

As well as crossing the Stalden viaduct, you’ll also get a glimpse of the village of Stalden, whose claim to fame is that it’s home to more than 15 bridges. Although the best views come for those exploring on foot, look out for two of the most memorable; Neubrück, built in 1922, and Ritibrücke, which dates back to 1599, with a pretty chapel next to it.

Europe’s highest vineyard can be found around the village of Visperterminen, where grapes ripen more than a kilometre above sea level on the sunny slopes. In spring and summer, you’ll see flowers blooming in the meadows too. Sip a glass of one of the fruity, yellow vintages made using the Heida grape which grows here, with local wines served on board the Glacier Express.

Visperterminen vineyard

One of the bigger towns on the route, Brig is also one of the oldest, dating back to 1250 when it sat on a major trade route. A great base if you want to hike around the Aletsch Glacier, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s also the point where the green valleys and mountainside vineyards begin to turn into the ice of the High Alps.

Picture an Alpine mountain village and it will look something like Goms. This high valley in the Upper Valais is known for its authentic wooden chalet houses and pretty white church towers, a scene which looks as if it has barely changed for centuries. In winter, the valley is popular with cross-country skiers, and heaven for hikers in summer.

Blink and you’ll miss Zumdorf, Switzerland’s smallest village. Just outside Andermatt, the village has a church, a restaurant, two holiday homes and a single family of three living there.

Founded in the 12th century, Andermatt lies 1,444m above sea level at the heart of passes through the Swiss Alps. One of several points where you can board the Glacier Express, it’s considered the start of one of the best Glacier Express route sections. Andermatt is also one of the most snow-sure winter resorts, while the dramatic Schöllenen Gorge is home to the ‘Devil’s Bridge’ – there’s a memorial to those who died in 1799 during a campaign by Austro-Russian armed forces.

The highest point of the Glacier Express journey, the Oberalp Pass sits at 2033 meters above sea level, with some spectacular views onto the lake. In winter, it freezes solid under a blanket of snow, while cows graze on the banks in summer. Don’t miss the lighthouse which indicates Lake Toma, the source of the River Rhine – its twin sits at the mouth of the river in the Netherlands, where the river flows into the North Sea.

Oberalpsee Lake, Oberalp Pass

The monastery in this village is the oldest Benedictine abbey in Switzerland, whose origins go back more than 1,400 years. The current monumental building and the village church with its twin spires date from the late 17th century. Disentis is also the heart of Romansh-speaking Switzerland – one of the official languages of trilingual Graubunden, this is the largest community where Romansh is still spoken.

Known as the Swiss Grand Canyon, the Rhine Gorge stretches between Reichenau and Ilanz, with the sparkling turquoise river winding through the rugged rocks and sheer cliffs of the gorge. Home to some rare plants and animals, the gorge was formed during a huge landslide around 10,000 years ago which blocked the valley, forcing the river to create a new path through the rocks.

Glacier Express alongside the Rhine

The third highest viaduct in Switzerland, the Solis Viaduct is also one of the most impressive you’ll pass on the Glacier Express. Towering 85m high above the Schin Gorge and stretching for 42m over 11 limestone arches, it’s part of the UNESCO-listed route between Thusis and Tirano, with the Albula river flowing through the base of the gorge.

This dramatic viaduct rises 65m high above a deep gorge and is one of the best-known points of the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway. The 142m stone bridge has six arches spanning the river Landwasser before curving into a tunnel bored out of the cliff face.

Landwasser Viaduct with Glacier Express

The Albula line section (along with the Bernina Line) is part of the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway, and arguably the best part of the Glacier Express route, with some of the most challenging engineering solutions to be seen. Between Preda and Bergün, you’ll pass six high viaducts, three spiral and two helical tunnels, letting the train travel more than 400m in a relatively short space – in total, the Glacier Express rises 1,000m in altitude from Thusis to St Moritz.

On the sunny southern side of the Swiss Alps, the Engadin valley is known for its lake district, with four major lakes between Maloja and St Moritz, as well as more mountain lakes tucked away in the woods. Popular for winter sports and summer hiking, it’s also home to the pretty village of Filisur, one of the closest stops on the Glacier Express if you’re staying in Davos.

Known as the birthplace of Alpine winter tourism, the Glacier Express trains start or end their route in stylish St Moritz, and it’s a lovely place to spend some time. Set on the lakeside at 1,800m above sea level, it’s known for its skiing and hosted the Winter Olympics twice, but there are also lovely walks in summer – the village gets 300 days of sunshine a year.

St Moritz

The Glacier Express runs on part of the standard Swiss network, so regular trains also travel along the same track but on the Glacier Express, the carriages have large panoramic windows to give a better view out onto the wonderful scenery. All Glacier Express trains have both first and second-class carriages, which are similar but with a slightly different seat layout.

Swiss Alps as seen from the Glacier Express

The second-class carriages have two sets of four seats either side of the aisle, while first class has slightly larger seats with one set of four seats and a set of two on the other side. Both have WiFi and air conditioning, as well as a digital infotainment guide to access via your own device. There’s also catering on board, with the option to pre-order meals as well as to choose a la carte, with food served at your seat.

The Glacier Express also includes the option of Excellence Class on some trains, which has just two reclining seats on either side of the aisle so you’re guaranteed a window seat. You’re welcomed on the platform by a concierge, then your journey begins with a glass of champagne and aperitif platter aboard. Along the way, there’s also a five-course menu featuring Alpine delicacies prepared in the on-board kitchen, along with cocktails and wine from the Glacier Bar – look out for the gold-plated compass dome over the bar, which rotates each time you change direction.

Each seat in Excellence Class has headphones and tablet so you can find out more from the infotainment system, while luggage is stored for you in a separate section. With large panoramic windows in all classes, there’s always a good view, especially as the train changes direction repeatedly during the course of the journey. However, if you’re travelling from Zermatt to St Moritz, the best seats on the Glacier Express are on the right side of the train for the majority of the journey. If you’re travelling in reverse, from St Moritz to Zermatt, the best seats on Glacier Express are on the left-hand side.

View from inside the Glacier Express

There is a variety of food served on the Glacier Express, with hot dishes cooked fresh in the on-board kitchen and served directly at your seat. A five-course meal is included for Excellence Class but otherwise both first and second-class passengers can choose between the dish of the day, various menus (including two and three-course options) and a la carte dishes, with details on the website under Gastronomy.

Options include traditional Swiss dishes but also international cuisine, such as curry, as well as cold options. The Glacier salad features Graubünden mountain cheese, while you could also choose local cheese plates.

There are vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free options available, as well as local wines to accompany the meals. Choices vary depending when you’re travelling, including the duration of your journey and the specific route you’re taking.

While you can order on the day, it’s strongly recommended that you book meals in advance as there may be more limited options available otherwise. Only cashless payments are accepted. Look out for the train’s famous tilting wine glass too (available to buy as a souvenir), which was invented to prevent your drink from spilling as the Glacier Express tackles the curves and slopes of the route, including the helical tunnels.

There’s free WiFi available on board all carriages of the Glacier Express, and air conditioning in all classes. You’ll also find toilets in all carriages, along with some accessible toilets and designated wheelchair spaces in certain carriages. There’s also an infotainment guide on board to share information about the highlights, which you can access via your phone or tablet. Excellence Class has a tablet provided to allow you to access this.

Food and drink is available to enjoy at your seat, cooked fresh in the onboard kitchen during the journey; it’s best to prebook this but some options may also be available to buy on the day. There also a bar on board in Excellence Class carriages, with a five-course meal included.

Length: 291km

Bridges: 291

Tunnels: 91

Average speed: 42 km/h

Highest point: 2,033m above sea level

Passengers per year: over 250,000

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