Why Prague inspired The Da Vinci Code’s Dan Brown

If you loved The Da Vinci Code you will be looking forward to Dan Brown’s new novel, The Secret of Secrets, out in September, in which the city of Prague takes a starring role. Rumour has it that Netflix executives were recently spotted at the city’s Four Seasons Hotel, as part of their plans to turn the novel into a TV series.

Brown researches his locations in person and says that his fascination with Prague 'began with its deep history of mysticism and the occult. It is a labyrinth of enigmatic sites…a city of secrets, both ancient and modern'.

This city certainly is stuffed with architectural treasures. One of the most recognisable is Charles Bridge, built in the mid-1300s and lined with 30 statues depicting various saints. Then there is Prague’s Old Town Square, dominated by the famous Astronomical Clock.

Astronomical Clock

And he’s right about the secret side of it. The Old Town Hall looks like an explosion of Gothic grandeur, but head beneath its ornate façade on a guided tour and you’ll wander through the subterranean remains of houses built in the 1100s. These Romanesque residences, it turned out, were prone to flooding, and when work on the city’s new town started in the 1300s, they became basements. An entire new layer of residences, workplaces and administrative buildings were built on top of their remains.

The city is so steeped in history that even the shopping mall features archaeological marvels. Chunks of stone wall unearthed during the building work are on display throughout the centre – and if you’re browsing the Luxor bookstore you’ll have to navigate the remains of Romanesque columns.

And then there are the glorious reminders of Prague’s art nouveau era. The Lucerna Palace, a shopping arcade tucked between Štěpánská and Vodičkova streets, was constructed in the early 1900s and designed by architect Václav Havel (grandfather of the former president). It’s an explosion of glorious stained glass domes and vast expanses of marble. A more recent addition is the statue by Czech artist David Černý. Kůň is Černý’s take on the equestrian statue dedicated to St Wenceslas and erected in nearby Wenceslas Square, although Černý’s sculpture is much less traditional. Depicting St Wenceslas sitting atop an upside-down (and decidedly dead, going by its lolling tongue) horse, it’s widely believed to be a damning attack on Václav Klaus (president of the Czech Republic between 2003 and 2013).

Symbolism has always been part of Prague’s DNA, and Dan Brown has also waxed lyrical about these. You’ll find both secrets and symbols at the hilltop Strahov Monastery, more specifically its library, home to 200,000 books. Its oldest section is the Theological Hall, built in the 1600s and adorned with stunning frescoes painted by priest Siard Nosecký as a tribute to God’s wisdom. Note the ornate gilded cabinets at either end of the library; these were reserved for libri prohibiti ('forbidden books'). But the strangest exhibits can be found in the library’s central hallway, lined with cabinets of curiosities filled with artefacts collected by Baron Karel Jan Eben and subsequently purchased by the Strahov Monastery’s monks in 1798. The items’ appeal is anyone’s guess – the shells and gemstones are stunning, but the same can’t be said for the taxidermied hammerhead shark, stingray and bird of prey.

While many visitors to Prague Castle make a beeline for the St. Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace, we suggest a wander along Golden Lane, a narrow, cobbled thoroughfare lined with the tiny, carefully preserved homes and workplaces of castle workers. These include the former workshop of the castle goldsmith (complete with a cage that once housed a bird – a natural sensor responsible for alerting the goldsmith to toxic fumes). This particular workplace dates back to the 1400s, but others are more recent. A few metres away is the residence of former castle psychic Matylda Průšová, whose most prosperous years spanned the early 1900s. Her uniform consisted of a black gown adorned with ostrich feathers, and her ability to foresee the future sealed her fate – her predictions that the Third Reich would fall prompted the Gestapo to arrest her, and she was tortured to death.

Charles Bridge

There’s no better spot to admire Prague’s eclectic skyline than from the rooftop Zlatá Praha restaurant. Head here for modern twists on classic Czech dishes (the most popular items on the menu include rabbit ballotine and pike perch with green asparagus), and to soak up fantastic views from huge windows running the entire length of the restaurant.

As for that all-important nightcap? You’ll never be far from a beer hall or beer garden in Prague. In summer and autumn, join locals to sip pilsners beneath the shade of linden trees, planted to help cool the cellars below. Attracting the attention of bartenders is never hard – they’re constantly on patrol, wielding trays loaded with steins of foamy pilsners ready to be handed out to those in need of a refill. There’s also no shortage of sustenance on offer when hunger strikes. Carnivores are especially well catered for – the most popular dishes served include rich goulashes and supersized pork knuckles. The prettiest spots for beer lovers include U Pinkasu, which nudges up against the walls of The Church of Our Lady of the Snows, a Catholic church built in the 1300s, and the U Fleků brewery – grab a seat in the huge beer garden or beneath the stunning frescos adorning the ceilings of its cavernous beer halls.

Prefer spirits over steins? Consider the CottoCrudo bar at the Four Seasons Hotel. There’s a big focus on local ingredients, including absinthe, still produced by numerous distilleries throughout the city. But we recommend the Mandarino cocktail, made with Tanqueray gin, mandarin cordial and the bar’s very own bespoke vermouth, infused with 30 herbs. Yes, it’s a strange concoction which sounds strange but it works rather well.

Vltava River at dusk

Prague is a city easily explored on foot, but when it’s time to give weary legs a rest, the Uber and Bolt ride-share services offer brilliant value for money. Bolt’s fares are often cheaper, so it’s worth comparing quotes before booking your ride.

The Prague Visitor Pass, available in 48, 72 or 120-hour formats, offers great value for money. Prices start from £91 for a 48-hour pass. You’ll get free or discounted admission to over 70 attractions, unlimited travel by metro, tram, city buses, trolleybuses and ferries throughout Prague (including the journey from the airport and back) and a free guided tour or river cruise.

Insta-friendly chimney cakes (known as trdelník) are sold everywhere in Prague, although they’re actually Slovakian. Our advice? Opt for a kolach – a disc of sweetened bread topped with jam.