Which island is the best kept secret in the Med?

Malta might be the tenth smallest country in the world, but there’s a lot more to this Mediterranean escape – and sister islands Gozo and Comino – than you might expect. Far from your average sun, sand and sea break, you’ll uncover 7,000 years of history dating back to before the Great Pyramid was built in Egypt, timeless cities that are home to knightly palaces, quirky traditions, rich marine life, and food influenced by a succession of cultures who’ve shaped life over the centuries.

Whether you’re hoping to soak up the views, dig back into the mists of the past, or sip a glass of local wine, you won’t be short of inspiration on this little island, slightly smaller than the Isle of Wight. But despite all this, Malta is still often overlooked, making it one of the best-kept secrets in the Med. Here’s why it should be high on your holiday wishlist.

Half the joy of a visit to Malta is strolling through the island’s historic streets, especially the golden-stone capital of Valletta. Wandering the hilly lanes, you’ll stumble across little alleys too pretty not to photograph, containing houses with traditional closed wooden balconies known as gallarija.

Valetta Grand Harbour

Built in the 16th century by the Knights of St John, you can still wander past their auberges – mansions that would have housed the knights themselves.

The most impressive of all, unsurprisingly, is the former Grand Master’s Palace. Now the office of the president of Malta, some of the ornate rooms are open to the public so you can get a glimpse of the lavish décor. Or soak up the silence in the car-free streets of former capital Mdina, whose history stretches back to the Romans and Phoenicians, and neighbouring Rabat, where St Paul once lived for three months after being shipwrecked on the island while on his way to Rome, and where you can explore catacombs used by early Christians.

Malta’s prehistoric temples deserve to be as famous as Stonehenge or the pyramids of Giza, the legacy of a civilisation known only as the temple builders, but somehow these fascinating sites often get overlooked. Start at the temple complex of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra on Malta’s south-west coast, where the visitor centre whisks you back in time through a 3D movie and displays of artefacts reveal a few of the temples’ secrets. Then, walk down through fields of wildflowers to the stone remains themselves, the deep blue Mediterranean in the background, to explore inside the ancient sites.

Look out for the hole bored through a rock at Mnajdra, positioned to allow sunlight to pour through at each equinox and solstice, and the vast megaliths – one weighing 20 tonnes, another stretching more than 5m tall. Older still are the temples at Ġgantija on Gozo, dating back more than 5,500 years.

Shaped by everyone from conquering empires to seafaring traders, Malta’s cuisine draws on a mouth-watering mix of influences. There’s fresh fish galore, especially lampuka (mahi-mahi), alongside more unusual dishes such as sea urchin pasta; an acquired taste, it’s a little like eating a mouthful of sea foam. You’ll find rabbit (fenek) on many menus too, often stewed in red wine or served up in pasta.

Pastizzi

Away from the restaurants, pastizzi are unmissable – a moreish flaky triangular pastry stuffed with ricotta or peas. The best is said to come from Rabat, but you’ll be spoiled for choice. Wash it down with one of Malta’s wines, made from the island’s 800 hectares of vineyards. Try a sip of two local grapes: Girgentina produces fruity whites, while ġellewża makes light reds with hints of cherry. Prefer something non-alcoholic? Local soft drink Kinnie is another acquired taste to try at least once – a refreshing herby soda whose ingredients include bitter orange and wormwood.

Malta’s cultural tapestry weaves together the threads of its long and varied heritage, with different influences still surviving wherever you look. Today, the church is at the heart of life; quite literally in the smaller towns and villages, which are dominated by these grand buildings. Around 96% of the Maltese population is Catholic, and the summer’s calendar is punctuated by regular celebrations called festas, with statues of saints paraded in processions, live music and fireworks to celebrate.

So it’s little surprise you’ll find not one but two cathedrals on the island, one in Mdina, the other in Valletta – the latter is home to two priceless works by Caravaggio, who fled here from Italy. Around the corner, there’s more to discover at MUZA, the National Museum of Art, with Old Masters alongside modern Maltese artists, plus temporary exhibitions at Spazju Kreattiv, showcasing emerging local artists as well as international names.

You’ll find more pebbly and rocky coves around Malta than golden stretches of sand, but if you’re happy to plonk your towel on the shingle, or hire a lounger, there are some beautiful corners of coastline to discover, and some delightfully secluded coves. For a leisurely swim, Għadira (or Mellieħa) Bay in the north is one of the longest sandy stretches, with a gentle slope into the water. Or Golden Bay is as gilded as its name suggests, although it’s best to turn up bright and early in summer to find a space.

Next door, Ghajn Tuffieha is quieter as it’s a slightly longer walk from the hotels, but with the same deep golden sand. Malta is home to some tempting natural swimming pools, too, carved out of the rocks by the waves. St Peter’s Pool is one of the best, with a sheltered lagoon for swimming.

You might not associate Malta with diving, but it’s been named one the best dive destination in Europe, and there’s great snorkelling if you prefer to stay on the surface. Għar Lapsi is a great place to start. Sheltered by the Dingli Cliffs, the turquoise waters of this natural pool are sheltered from the sea so you won’t be battling strong currents as you float over the reef, or swim over to one of the sea caves.

There are several shallow wrecks to explore on Malta, too, so if you’re a novice diver (or prefer not to dive too deep), you can discover ships lying beneath the waves. HMS Maori in Valletta harbour was sunk in 1942 and now moray eels and rays make their homes in its submerged corridors. There’s even a chance to spy octopus hiding away here.

The turquoise sparkle of the water at Comino’s Blue Lagoon is quite simply beautiful, a glass-clear cove in every shade from azure and teal to sapphire and cerulean, overlooked by the rugged rocks and flower-filled hillside of Malta’s smallest and least inhabited island. It’s one of the loveliest corners of the little archipelago.

Blue Grotto

Back on Malta itself, the Blue Grotto near Wied iż-Żurrieq is a fairytale alternative. Tucked away behind the natural limestone arches of the cliffs, it’s accessible only by boat, with light seeping through the cave entrance to illuminate the deep blue waters until they glimmer.Finish on the nearby Dingli Cliffs, rising 253m above the sea. The highest point on Malta, you’ll find wonderful cliffside walks and eye-catching sunset views.

Wherever you look in Malta, you’ll find echoes of the island’s past, for example at the pretty fishing village of Marsaxlokk. Take a closer look at the prow of the colourful luzzu boats and you’ll discover a tradition that’s endured for millennia. The painted eyes you’ll see are believed to bring good fortune, a modern version of the ones that Phoenicians painted on their own boats, asking for the protection of Egyptian god Horus.

There’s another unmissable tradition to enjoy in Valletta, where a signal gun has been fired at sunrise, noon and sunset since the Order of St John ruled Malta. When the British arrived in 1800, they continued the practice, but moved it to the Saluting Battery overlooking the Grand Harbour. To this day, there’s a gun fired at noon and 4pm daily (except Sundays), with great ceremony – get to the Upper Barrakka Gardens early for a good view, and expect to jump!

Top image credit: Getty Images

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